1 Are you licensed and insured for landscaping work in my state?
Ask for the license number and proof of general liability + workers' comp insurance. Verify the license on your state's contractor lookup. Uninsured workers on your property = your homeowner's problem if something goes wrong.
2 Can you give me references from 3 jobs you completed in the last 12 months?
Old references say what they did 5 years ago — recent ones say what they do now. Drive by one of the projects if you can.
3 Will the quote be itemized?
A one-line "Backyard renovation: $24,000" hides what you're really paying for. Insist on a written itemized scope showing materials, labor, site prep, debris removal, and any sub-trades separately.
4 What happens if costs come in higher than estimated?
You want a written change-order policy. Reasonable contractors set a threshold (e.g. "no surprise charges over $250 without written approval"). Anyone who says "we'll figure it out" is a yellow flag.
5 Who exactly will be on my property — your crew or subcontractors?
Many "landscapers" sub out hardscape, concrete, or planting. That's fine — but ask who's responsible for the work and warranty if a sub does it. Get sub-trade names in writing.
6 What's the payment schedule, and how much do you want up front?
A reasonable structure: 10–25% deposit, milestone payments tied to delivery (materials on site, halfway through, completion), and 10% withheld until the punch-list is signed off. Avoid contractors asking for 50%+ before any work starts.
7 What's your warranty on plants and on hardscape?
Industry standard: 1 year on plants (with seasonal care followed), 1–5 years on hardscape labor. Material warranties pass through from the manufacturer. Get the warranty in writing — verbal warranties evaporate when you need them.
8 Who pulls permits, and is the cost in this quote?
Decks, retaining walls over 4 ft, fences in some zones, anything tied to drainage — these usually need permits. The contractor should handle them and the cost should be in the quote. If they say "you don't need a permit" without checking, push back.
9 How will you protect my existing landscaping, fence, lawn, and house?
Heavy equipment crushes lawns and damages driveways. Ask about plywood pathways for machines, plant protection, and how they'll re-grade or re-sod any damage they cause.
10 What's the timeline, including weather contingency?
"3 weeks" should mean 3 working weeks plus a weather buffer. Ask: "If you start on day X, when do you expect to finish, and what would push that back?" Get a Gantt-style timeline if the project is over 4 weeks.
11 Who cleans up — daily and at the end?
Pile of dirt and debris on your lawn for 2 weeks is a real risk. Confirm daily tidy-up (tools, materials, food waste) and final haul-away in writing. Final cleanup including pressure-washing nearby surfaces should be standard.
12 What maintenance do you recommend in the first year, and do you offer it?
A good contractor will tell you exactly what care plants and hardscape need in year one (watering, mulching, sealing) — and whether you can do it yourself or should hire it out. Beware contractors who push a maintenance plan you don't need.
Bonus: 3 red-flag answers to listen for
- "We don't put that in writing." Anything important should be in the contract — warranty, timeline, payment milestones, change-order policy.
- "That's a cash discount." Sometimes legit, often a sign they don't carry insurance or aren't reporting income. Either way, you have no paper trail if something goes wrong.
- "We can start tomorrow." Reputable contractors are usually booked 2–6 weeks out, especially in peak season. Same-day starts can be a sign of unfilled schedule for a reason.